Day 41 - Palaces and Salt Mines

Laura was slightly peeved that our conductor had us up with the news that we were 15 minutes from Krakow, when it turned out to be more like 40 minutes. Our train eventually arrived in Krakow about 7:15pm, after what was for me another intermittent night’s sleep. With the modern miracle of an ATM we soon had ourselves some local currency (the Zloty) before following the directions to our nearby hostel. It was just as well we decided against getting some breakfast on the way there (not that there was a lot open yet) because we found that the hostel’s rate included breakfast and we were in time to indulge.


Once fortified with breakfast and equipped with a map we set off to explore first the Old Town then the Palace. Of course in the Old Town Square there was a (church) tower to climb wasn’t there, so we duly gave our legs another workout to take in the view. The cathedral itself wasn’t open to visitors due to some function (a sneak peek indicated that it looked interesting though) so we continued on to the Royal Palace.

Palace Tower

The Palace didn’t look as big as the one in Prague and we opted to limit our tour to the “Crown Treasury and Armoury” and the “State Rooms”. The former was a bit disappointing, really just a collection of armour and old canons. A pity that photography was not allowed in the latter though, as some of the decorations (carved heads on the ceiling anyone?) were quite interesting. On our way out of the palace grounds we went through the Dragon’s Den – which is a series of steps leading to a cave at the base of the castle. (A dragon features in one of the oldest legends about the early days of the region).

Making our way back towards the Old Town Square we had some problems getting lunch – waitressing is still an emerging skill here it seems. The first place we tried, the waitress gave us some menus and then inexplicably disappeared for so long we left. The next place (after having placed our order and waited 15 minute for our drinks to even arrive) we were on the verge of leaving when the waitress finally interrupted her long chat with one of the other customers to fetch our food. At least the food itself was nice.

The markets in the Old Town Square were given a quick once over – nothing of interest – so we returned to the region of our hostel where we check out the food markets just around the corner. These proved far more interesting and we managed to buy some very nice fruit there – yes, no surprise that bananas featured in the transactions @ about A$0.12 each!

The Salt Cathedral

There was just time for a short rest of our weary legs before being called to start our 4:00pm tour to the Salt Mines. As I had heard from everyone else I know who has seen them, the Salt Mine tours are really very interesting. Though the initial descent of about 800 steps was a bit of a concern (we had to get back up too remember), the things you see down there are both remarkable and fascinating. From pure salt floors that look like marble to salt crystal chandeliers that look like bohemia crystal. From caverns so tall they have done bungy jumping in them to a whole cathedral with elaborately carved features on the walls. And pools of brine so concentrated that you cannot sink in them. There are even function rooms setup to host parties and conferences, etc; though these have wooden floors to protect the salt from spilled liquids. The mine first started about 700 years ago, though there is no commercial mining done there now, just such maintenance as is required to keep it open and safe for visitors. At the deepest point of the tour we were 135 metre below the ground, but I am more than happy to report that there is a lift to get you back to the surface at the end of the tour.

Once dropped back at our lodgings we popped out for a very nice dinner at a nearby cheap eatery. Even with a map and directions we only found it by following someone else. After entering what looks like an office building you have to pass through five doors and go down one level to find the little bistro style restaurant. The food was basic but tasty and filling, and the service was quite quick. Which is just what you need when it is already after 8:00pm and you are tired and hungry.

Thereafter it was early to bed in anticipation of a big day tomorrow. Well early to bed for one of us. I found myself sitting in the hostel common room trying to write a blog while the TV was showing the old Dustin Hoffman/Tom Cruise movie “Rainman” – with both English dialogue and English subtitles for some reason.